Our New Zealand Travel Recs

It's been a while. Since the last post, we've seen more of New Zealand. And lucky for us, some of you have visited New Zealand!

The effort to get here isn't simple. Navigating a new place isn't easy either. That said, I appreciate travel prep as much as anyone. So, below is a working list of travel recommendations for NZ. It's hardly consummate, but it's a start. Whether you're considering a trip to NZ or simply interested in some of our highlights and pictures, read on.

Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown

General Notes

Bias for nature > cities. New Zealand is known for its beautiful scenery and nature conservation. It has nice urban amenities, but look for the natural offerings that interest you. 

NZ comprises over 600 islands and a lot of scenic coastline. There's likely something coastal to suit your interests, whether that's scuba and snorkeling, hiking, wineries, wavy or calm beaches, waterfront hotels or restaurants.

Airbnb lodging near Mangarakau, South Island

An egalitarian attitude underpins Kiwi culture. As a local friend told me, expect to pull up to a bar where one table is blue-collar workers in construction boots next to a table of folks leaving on a yacht. Ditch pretension. 

NZ weather is mild and wild. North Island temperatures are moderate year-round, but storms regularly pass heavily and quickly. 

• Be prepared for 3 seasons/day. 
• Pack rain gear. 
• Accuweather & MetService forecasts are more accurate here than the Apple Weather app. Regardless of forecasts, see prior comments about being ready for variation.

Caught in the rain

Wear sunscreen and cover with clothing and hats. Sunshine in NZ is intense, and sunburn hits quickly. The thinner ozone above this part of the world is to blame. Most weather apps include a "time to burn" estimate, which is typically <15 minutes. Don't be fooled by clouds—you can still burn. 

Book well in advance for summer travel. Late-December through mid-February is peak travel and leisure time in NZ. This means restaurants, campgrounds, and lodging fill early, and many businesses close for vacation. Plan accordingly. 

For nice and/or popular restaurants, make reservations and don't expect walk-in availability. Tipping at restaurants isn't customary. Few high-end restaurants offer the option to tip. Perhaps relatedly, restaurant service in NZ is rarely top shelf. That said, people are nice. Be patient. 

Most hiking trails are well groomed, even in remote locations. It's remarkable. This simplifies access and difficulty.

Hiking from Piha to Kitekite Falls

If multi-day hikes are of interest, some of the most popular routes have options for supported trips, including prepared meals, guides, and a roof over your head (rather than camping). I’d consider these for the Milford Track and Queen Charlotte Track. Also, some of NZ's "Great Walks" require advanced booking. 

Driving: Roads are not the size or quality we're used to in the States. Most importantly, drive on the left side of the road. 

• Traffic circles are common. When approaching a traffic circle, observe right of way. 
• Most highways are 2-way undivided roads. 
• Stop for all pedestrians approaching white lined crosswalks. If a driver here thinks you might be crossing the road, she'll stop—it's great. 
• There is no left turn on red at intersections. Don't ask. 
• Before going off the beaten path, double-check the quality of the roads. Plenty of tourists rent large vehicles that outsize the roads on their itinerary. Narrow, gravel, pot-holed roads are common in remote areas. 
• Before road tripping, check NZTA for road closures. 

Pack casual clothing. Business casual suffices for most high-end occasions. 

Lodging: Outside of major cities, hotels aren't ubiquitous. Where this shows most is the lack of mid-tier chains. More common are high-end options, motels, Airbnb and Book a Bach (pronounced "batch", this means holiday home).

"Glamping" at the start of the Abel Tasman Track

Single-serve savory pies are a popular snack or meal. They're everywhere—cafés, gas stations, restaurants. Give 'em a try. Our favorites are steak & mushroom, and chicken & veggie. 

Coffee culture is a point of pride. Similar to Australia, Kiwis take their coffee seriously. If you're keen, skip the chain stores, look up reviews for local coffee shops, and give them a try. 

Be bird curious. There are unique birds, endangered birds, and bird calls you've likely never heard. Short of committing to bird tourism (there are options), the new sights and sounds are simple delights. 

Bring the right outlet adaptors. Australia and NZ use Type-1 electrical plugs. 

Hyped and worth it: Queenstown, fjords, Christchurch, Hobbiton (Lord of the Rings film site for the hobbits' Shire), and Auckland. 

Excursions

Downtown Auckland

Stay at Hotel Britomart (named one of the world's top boutique hotels by Condé Nast, 2021), QT Auckland, or find an Airbnb.

There's a good culinary scene in the Auckland CBD. I can provide heaps of restaurant recs, depending on your interests. Places to consider: 

• Any meal at Amano (one of my favorites in the CBD)
• Esther (Mediterranean), Origine (French), GILT Brasserie, Le Chef (casual spot; cozy street), Ima Cuisine (Middle Eastern)

Stroll the Viaduct Harbour. Pass the Ferry Building and Wynyard Crossing. Check out the boats, and pop into Williams Eatery for breakfast or lunch. 

Auckland Ferry Building in the CBD

Consider a <10 minute drive to Cornwall Park to walk up One Tree Hill for 360 views of Auckland. In addition to the summit, there are nice walking trails alongside sheep and cattle... this popular café... and tree canopied roads. Charming place.

If you're looking for a bit of a scene, walk Ponsonby Road and peruse the shops, galleries, and restaurants. 

For kids: go up the Sky Tower if the forecast is clear; book a visit to Weta Workshop and the All Blacks Experience. 

Walk to the ferry terminal and take the 30 minute ride to Waiheke Island. This could be a day trip or an overnight. It's popular for its beaches, shops, restaurants, and wineries. Plus, it's a short trip to feel removed from city life.

Palm Beach, Waiheke Island

Get around Waiheke by public bus or taxi (rental cars are also available from the ferry terminal). Stay near Oneroa, the main town just minutes from the Waiheke ferry. 

Dinner at Mudbrick Winery for sunset views of Auckland Harbour. Lunch or dinner at Oyster Inn overlooking Oneroa Beach. For more casual fare, visit Too Fat Buns around the corner for one of Auckland's best burgers. 

Morning winery views on Waiheke

Go wine (or beer) tasting at Tantalus Estate or Man O’ War. Tantalus is much closer / more convenient to access. Both places have full service restaurants, in addition to wine tasting. 

Auckland’s Eastern Suburbs (St Heliers / Kohimarama)

This has been our neighborhood since we arrived. It's quiet, safe, and beautiful.

Morning walk along the beach up to Achilles Point for expansive views of Auckland Harbour, the North Shore, and east towards Waiheke.

Casual lunch or dinner along the beach (e.g. Kohi Beach Café, St Heliers Bistro, Moreton’s, La Vista).

For kids: Mission Bay beach, shops and playground, Madills Farm Playground

  

The beach boardwalk stretching from St. Heliers to Mission Bay, just minutes from Auckland CBD.    Achilles Point at the eastern edge of St. Heliers looking out to Rangitoto.

Queenstown

Milford Sound is the unofficial 8th Wonder of the World. There a few ways to visit from Queenstown. I recommend you plan a flyover from Queenstown (Glenorchy Air) or fly and stay 1 night. The drive is ~4 hours—not especially fun. Either way you get there, plan a cruise in Milford Sound (a few hours).

Note: due to weather, nearly half of the flights from Queenstown to Milford Sound are cancelled. Set expectations accordingly. The flight companies will work with you to reschedule, if possible.

If you choose to stay in Milford Sound, the only options are one camper van park and the Milford Sound Lodge. The Lodge has nice chalets, an underwhelming onsite restaurant, and is a gorgeous setting to relax. 

 

In Queenstown... Peruse the shops. Enjoy the Harbour View Walk with sweeping views of Lake Wakatipu. Luxury lodging options include Azur Bay and Blanket Bay.

  

Queenstown at dusk                                                     Stroll the Queenstown Harbour View Walk

Visit Skyline to take the gondola up. Zip downhill on the luge track or mountain bike trails.

One great hiking option is to ride the gondola up, then exit straight ahead to the Ben Lomond Track. Once there, the simplest route is out-and-back (i.e. uphill and inland from the lake). You can go as far as you’re willing. Enjoy the sweeping views, clean trail, and effort.

Hiking Ben Lomond Track overlooking Lake Wakatipu

Consider a guided wine tour. The Central Otago region is famous for its wine, particularly Pinot Noir. (NZ wine exports are a $1.5B USD annual business.) Here’s a wine tour company we’ve used.

Gibbston Valley Winery, home to NZ's largest wine cave

Onseen Day Spa offers Japanese style hot baths overlooking the Shotover River. This has become a trendy spot to enjoy a serene private tub [with a bottle of champagne].

Rafting down the Shooter River near Queenstown

Breakfast at The Boatshed Café, a restored 150+ year old railway shipping office, while driving north to…

Visit Lake Hayes (15 minute drive north of Queenstown). Park here at the lake, and walk the 5 mile groomed loop around the lake.

Visit Arrowtown (20 minute drive north of Queenstown). Faux rugged charming town. Good spot to grab a bite and go on a walk/hike immediately accessible from the town's main parking lot.

• Arrowtown Trail
• Casual lunch or dinner at The Fork and Tap (call ahead for reservations)
• Top notch dinner at Aosta (call ahead for reservations)

If golf is of interest, book tee times at Jack’s Point and/or Millbrook Resort. 

Drive from Queenstown to Christchurch

Wanaka

Similar to Queenstown, Wanaka is a beautiful lakefront city with captivating mountain views. It’s small, but it offers ample options to eat and explore (e.g. more wineries, mountain biking, hiking, skiing). In early summer, the blooming lupin are a memorable site.

Lupin in bloom along the drive from Arrowtown to Wanaka

Park at the Wanaka Rotary Playground and walk north along the water past "That Wanaka Tree". This is a flat, groomed path.

Stop at Pembroke Patisserie on your way north out of town for delicious baked goods, savory pies and sandwiches.

  

"That Wanaka Tree"                                                                   Views of Lake Wanaka

Mount Cook / Hooker Valley Track

If you're interested in a beautiful walk, this out and back is a stunner. It's a ~20 minute detour from the main road as you drive north. Aim to walk to at least the first suspension bridge (roughly 20 minutes in) to see the mountain expanse and the milky water rushing beneath the crossing. In total, it’s ~5km to arrive to Hooker Lake. 

Also, consider a glacier tour. This requires a bus ride plus short walk.

  

View along the Hooker Valley Track                                           Glacier outing on Mueller Lake

Lake Tekapo

Back on the main road, Tekapo offers a stop for food, a playground zipline, and another scenic out-and-back hike (Lake Tekapo Walkway). 

Tekapo is known for The Dark Sky Project stargazing experience. This is one of 20 designated dark sky reserves in the world. Excursions require a late night booking for the best conditions. 

Among other things, Tekapo’s commitment to preserving their naturally pristine sky conditions (e.g. limiting bulb lumens, using curtains at night, down-facing landscape lighting only) is an example of a community working together for a shared interest. 

  

Lake Tekapo Walkway                                                                 Night sky tour at Tekapo

Christchurch

Here’s a good itinerary for a few days in Christchurch.

Stay at The Obervatory Hotel. It's centrally located, well serviced, and unique—an old university building with modern upgrades. 

Stroll in Hagley Park. It's replete with cafés, a botanical garden, museum, a 9 hole golf course, frisbee golf, etc. Near Hagley Park, see what’s on at The Arts Centre and Canterbury Museum. 

  

Breakfast at The Observatory Hotel                                        Hagley Park Botanical Garden

Walk to Riverside Market for casual lunch and dinner options. Visit Earl for a nice lunch or dinner.

Do one of the hiking trails along Dyers Pass Road, such as Marleys Hill. The network of hiking and mountain biking trails here is awesome.

Hiking off Summit Road just south of Christchurch

If you continue over Dyers Pass, visit Lyttleton and Bomba Pizza & Gelato. This quaint port town is less than 20 minutes from Christchurch city by car.

Driving (err, biking) from Christchurch into Lyttleton

For kids: International Arctic Centre, Air Force Museum, Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, and The Margaret Mahy Family Playground. 

The TranzAlpine Train is a famously scenic NZ railway tour that goes over Arthur Pass. You can do a day trip up to Arthur’s Pass, then have lunch and return to Christchurch in the evening or continue to Greymouth to explore the South Island’s west coast. 

Another scenic train tour is the Coastal Pacifc Train from Christchurch to Picton. There are options to stop in Kaikoura for hiking and whale watching, or Blenheim for cycling and wine tours. 

Christchurch Airport services basically every NZ airport.

Nelson / Kaiteriteri / Abel Tasman

Fly in and out of Nelson Airport. 

Breakfast or lunch outside at River Kitchen, Suter Café, or Bobby Franks. Dinner at Arden Bar & Kitchen. 

Hike the Glenduan to Cable Bay Track (15 minutes north of town). Check the trail website to confirm the trail status.

Pausing along the Glenduan to Cable Bay Track

The small town of Kaiteriteri can be a good home base for local excursions. Take a cruise from Kaiteriteri. Rent kayaks and paddle to Split Apple Rock. Stop at Smoking Barrel Café for lunch on the drive to or from Nelson.

Kayaking around Split Apple Rock near Abel Tasman

Hike Abel Tasman National Park. This is one of my favorite places in NZ for its natural beauty and quiet. The Abel Tasman Coast Track runs 60km one-way. Some people walk the entire track with overnight bookings required for campsites and huts. Others do shorter day hikes/runs in and out of the park (no booking required). The track is well-groomed, largely hugs the waterfront, and accesses numerous bays and beaches. 

Southern starting point of the Abel Tasman Track

Stay at Awaroa Lodge inside the park (book well in advance). You can hike here or take a ferry directly to Awaroa Bay. The lodge offers good service, a stunning bay and quiet beach, a beer and pizza garden for lunch, quality food, access to glowworms in a nearby creek bed, and it's very near the Abel Tasman Track if you fancy a walk. 

  

Lisa paddleboarding in Awaroa Bay                                          Evening view along the Abel Tasman Track

Waterfront views along the groomed Abel Tasman Track

While in Nelson, one option is to visit Blenheim for winery tours (most known for its sauvignon blanc). From there, you could travel north to Marlborough Sound for a boat tour or to walk, bike, and/or kayak the Queen Charlotte Track. Here's a sea kayak excursion company for that area. 

Raglan / Glowworm Caves

• From Auckland, stop for BBQ at Blue Ox Babe.
• Visit the Glowworm Caves. 
• Visit the Raglan Grower's Market (Fridays, 5-7pm). 
• Hike to Te Toto Gorge Lookout (25 minute drive from town). 
• Breakfast or Lunch in Raglan at The Shack. Dinner outdoors at Rock-It Kitchen.

Morning walk along the Kaitoke Walkway near Raglan town

Other Auckland Area Excursions

SE Auckland
(~40 minute drive from CBD)

• Consider driving along the water through Maraetai.
• Hike Duder Park. There are casual paths through cattle and sheep fields… hilltop views to Waiheke Island and Coromandel’s peaks… and enough space to cobble together 2+ hours of hiking. As with most NZ hikes, bring your own water and snacks. 
• Stop to pick strawberries (summer) and/or have a ‘fresh fruit ice cream’. 
• Lunch at Farmhouse Deli—charming spot, delicious food and coffee, plenty of outdoor seating and space for kids to roam. 

Strolling through Duder Regional Park near Clevedon, Auckland

Visit Mangawhai 

(90 min drive north)

• Surf Beach (north edge of town) is great for boogie boarding and an out-and-back beach walk.
• Pontoon Bay is good for casual lounging and calm water. Park here and walk down the path.

Mangawhai Heads Beach—great for a walk, boogie boarding, and casual hang

• Town has a few restaurants. Recommend Gringas for Tex-Mex and Brewed As for coffee/breakfast/lunch. 
• Visit Bennett’s Chocolate—beautiful setting, high-end chocolates and wine, and an adjacent café plus small market
• Saturday Farmer’s Market (8:30am-1pm) for produce, breads, honey, sweets, jewelry, clothing, etc.

Visit Tāwharanui & Matakana
(75 min drive north en route to Mangawhai — beach and small town)

• Tāwharanui Beach
• Matakana Market: Saturdays in summer. It gets busy. Go early or don’t go at all.
• Sculptureum tour

Visit Bay of Islands 

(3+ hour drive north, overnight there for beaches, snorkeling, hikes) 

• Lodging at the Duke Hotel. Luxury lodging at Eagles Nest. 
• Pizza and beer at Hone’s Garden 
• Visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, site where NZ’s founding document was signed in 1840 by the British Crown and Māori Chiefs. This is among NZ’s most historic locations. 
• Short hike into Haruru Falls 
• Short hike into Rainbow Falls (30 minute drive from Paihia)
• Stop at The Old Packhouse for breakfast or lunch.

Hobbiton & Rotorua

Hobbiton is among NZ’s biggest tourist attractions, reportedly drawing >600,000 visitors/year. The Lord of the Rings movie set includes 44 hobbit “holes” (homes) and is exceptionally well manicured, including wood burning fireplaces throughout the Shire. Stop for drinks at the Green Dragon tavern at the end of the tour.

Book a Hobbiton tour for a stroll through The Lord of the Rings Shire

Near Hobbiton, stay a night or two in Rotorua. On The Point is a nice lodging near the Skyline activity center.

Views over Lake Rotorua from On The Point Hotel

Do the elevated tree walk through Redwood Trees, especially at night when lit. Night time visits are popular. Arrive at dusk before the night tours open or expect a long wait. 

  

Particularly if you have kids, visit the skyline luge and the Kiwi Hatchery. 

Rotorua is one of NZ's trail running and mountain biking meccas. It hosts international events for both sports. So, if those interest you, do some research and enjoy. There are also plenty of accessible scenic walks, such as Tutea Falls and Kakahi Falls. 

Kid-Centric Activities

• Tree Adventures ropes courses in north Auckland 
• Te Henga Walkway & the Sand Dunes @ Lake Wainamu. Park here. 
• For the dunes, enjoy a casual walk to the lake through the creek bed. Bring swimsuits and either a boogie board or large cardboard pieces to slide down the dunes. 
• Te Henga Walkway is stunning and somewhat dangerous — not suitable for little kids or the faint of heart. Check the government website to be sure the trail is open, and wear good hiking shoes. 

  

Full throttle down the sand dunes.                                                 Walking to Lake Wainamu

• Takapuna Playground (Auckland’s North Shore, beachfront, lots of nearby restaurants).

Indoor activities (for rainy days in Auckland)

• Rock climbing and indoor playground — good setup for kids (Extreme Edge)
• Trampoline bounce house (Gravity)
• Auckland War Memorial Museum

If you are considering a trip to NZ, don't hesitate to reach out for specific recommendations. Also, our friends, Tony and Clare, run a travel agency in Auckland. They can be a useful resource for your planning (https://travelsuite.co.nz).

Cheers to the adventure!